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A weekend in Pune is exactly what you need right now. Come away with me!
Pune is Mumbai’s second-favourite cousin. Goa will always be the first, sorry! Need a quick getaway or the good ol' recharge from big city life? Tumble into your car, bags and baggage in tow, and hurtle down the expressway towards cooler climes and fresher nightlife. It’s no surprise Pune is high on the weekend destination list in Maharashtra.
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Pune, in western India, goes by several names, such as 'Queen of the Deccan' and 'Oxford of the East.' The city is the second largest in Maharashtra and ranks among the top 10 metropolises in India.
Once the British took control of the region in the 1800s, Pune or 'Poona' as it was named, rose to fame. It soon became an important political and educational hub. The city houses many famous colleges, including Deccan College, Fergusson College, and New English School.
I’ve lived in Pune for over 12 years, only recently moving back to Mumbai. Over the years, Pune has evolved from a sleepy town where weekends at the Main Street were the only source of excitement. It is now a buzzy, vibrant city packed to the gills with fancy eateries and esoteric nightlife.
Before I get to the to-do and must-see lists, let's get the logistics out of the way, shall we? Mumbaikars can reach Pune by multiple means. The most common way is the drive down the expressway via the hill stations of Lonavala and Khandala. The journey can take 2.5 to 4.5 hours, depending on the traffic. Do stock up on chikki and fudge en route! There are several rest stops and food courts along the way, with decent restrooms.
Hint: Stop at Starbucks for their spotless and uncrowded restroom.
You can also travel to Pune by train from Mumbai. There are regular departures in the morning and evening. The journey takes about 3 to 3.5 hours, depending on the route and stops.
I suggest taking the Deccan Express, which departs from Mumbai CSTM at 7 am and reaches Pune railway station at 11.05 am. The train's new Vistadome coach offers a lovely panoramic view of the Western Ghats. The train winds through verdant hills and tumbling waterfalls, especially if you travel during the monsoons. The views from this executive class seating are worth every rupee.
With the how-tos out of the way, let’s plan the ideal weekend itinerary for Pune! No matter what you have planned for the rest of the trip, start with Vohuman Cafe. A lazy breakfast at Vohuman Cafe, where the slabs of butter are thicker than the slices of toast they cover, will give you enough energy to last the weekend.
After breakfast, go the local way and take an afternoon nap. Wake up refreshed and hit the town at any its happening bars and nightclubs all over the city.
My recommendations include early drinks at the Great State Dive Bar. This open-air terrace with twinkling fairy lights is a perfect backdrop for an easy sundowner. A word to the wise – don't miss out on the delectable Kokum Collins; it's a revelation of flavours made with soda and white rum infused with kokum, jaggery, and lemon juice.
All you have to do next is cross the street and pop into Tsuki for a fabulous Thai dinner. The vibe is Balinese, but the food leans heavily towards Thai, not that you're in any mood to quibble when the exquisite food reaches your table. Enjoy the Issan Grilled Pork Salad and the 3-mushroom Cheung fun. Do leave room for the super indulgent Honey Toast with Ginger and Coconut Ice cream.
There's one thing you shouldn't leave out of your Pune itinerary – Osho Park. The Osho Teerth Park is nestled between lanes 2 and 3 in Koregaon Park. Adjoining the famous Osho Ashram and Meditation Centre, Osho Park sprawled over 12 acres. The place was once a glorified garbage dump plagued with mosquitoes and reeked of refuse.
The administrators of the Osho Ashram enlisted the help of Japanese specialists to convert this space into an ecological haven. With more than a thousand visitors a week, this successful bio-remediation project continues to delight locals and tourists. The park is open between 6 am and 9 am and from 3 pm to 6 pm. My favourite time to visit is early in the morning.
The city fades away as you enter the park and you are transported to a zen garden. There are thickets of bamboo, ancient vines that wrap around giant tree trunks, a bubbling brook with darting carp, and statues of the Buddha in various meditative poses. I urge you to stop at one of the many marble benches amidst the greenery and pause. Maybe meditate a wee bit – not just about where to go next and what to eat!
Also Read - Immerse yourself in the lively nightlife of Koregaon Park in Pune
Another spot in Pune where I take all my visitors is the Pagdandi bookshop. Pagdandi is one of the reasons I'd make the trek from Wanowrie, where I used to live, to the opposite side of town.
It's a space I wish I could have created myself. It's welcoming, cosy and full of delicious treats and smells; add an amazing collection of books! It's a place where you can spend hours browsing without being disturbed. Pagdandi offers plenty of nooks amongst the stacks where bookworms can disappear with a steaming cup of chai.
Neither Vishal nor Neha, the co-founders and owners of Pagdandi, have a background in business or bookshops. When they met, Vishal was backpacking around the country, and they bonded over their common love for reading. After settling in Pune, both knew that books had to be the driving force behind any business they launched.
Pagdandi is the antithesis of fast-paced city life. It encourages people to take it slow, connect, and exchange ideas. Pagdandi recently opened its second space next to the original store. The new, larger Pagdandi operates purely as a retail store, while the smaller, original continues as a cafe.
For me, no trip to Pune is complete without a dash to Dorabjees. You may wonder why I have added a supermarket to our Pune to-do list. One visit to Dorabjees and the answer will be clear. Dorabjee Patel bought Dorabjees from the original British owners in 1911, and subsequent generations have maintained the store's stellar reputation for a century.
Everyone I know loves Dorabjees. You can find anything and everything you could ever want amid its stacked aisles. You can find anything from fresh-baked goods and mini-meals to cold cuts and cheeses at Dorabjees. You will also find all kinds of household provisions to high-end imported ingredients here. There are currently six Dorabjees stores in Pune. I dare anyone to step out of a Dorabjee store without buying anything!
Hint: You can pick up the iconic Pune souvenir of Shrewsbury biscuits at Dorabjees and skip the line at the nearby Kayani Bakery.
Oh, and one last thing before you head home – pop into Cake N Counter on Main Street and get yourself a slice of their chocolate cake for the drive back home. You can thank me later!
Also Read - Shaniwar Wada Pune - Timings, Location, Entry Fee, History, How to Reach
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