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A local's perspective of one of India's grandest cultural extravaganza.
The sounds of dhak and conch reverberate through the city from dawn into the late hours at night. The blend of aromas, from Dhunuchi to Shiuli or night-blooming jasmine, wafts through the streets. Dazzling displays of pandals and Durga idols make you wonder who would have created them. The lip-smacking bhog teases your taste buds for days on end. A touch of vermillion ushers good cheer as the festival culminates. Durga Puja or Pujo, will appeal to all your senses, especially in the last five days of festivities. Like me, every Bengali participates in the puja festivities. But I realised the extent of the revelry only after my parents moved to Kolkata in 2015. Kolkata, known for its rich culture, redefines vibrancy each September or October. The city's Durga Puja festival is an inherent part of its cultural heritage, and for good reason.
Sculptors of Kolkata start carving the clay idols of Durga, months before the festival. They inaugurate the festival on Mahalaya by painting her eyes. This ritual, known as "Chokkhu Dan" is symbolic of breathing life into the statue. The main celebrations start on Shashti, the sixth day after Mahalaya. For the next five days, the city looks like an open-air museum. During this time, pandal hopping becomes a favourite pastime of Kolkatans. Durga Puja in Kolkata may be a religious festival, but it is also one of India's most exquisite displays of creativity. Barowari, or community pujas, beckon people with artistry and glamour. Each sculpture is a masterpiece. The materials that shape the pandals are innovative, from bamboo and fabric to quirky materials like coins and antique trunks. The themes range from monument replicas to social messages like climate change and women's empowerment. When night descends, the pandal lights take the decor up a notch, luring massive crowds of pandal hoppers. If peace and quiet are a priority for you, visit during the daytime. Some Pujos are the crème de la crème of the city. These include the Suruchi Sangha and Badamtala Ashar Sangha in the south and Bagbazar and Mohammad Ali Park in the north. Two of the memorable displays of creativity I witnessed was the Race of Life theme of Tridhara Sammilani that depicted the everyday struggles of people, and Van Gogh's Starry Night theme of Hindustan Park Sarbojanin.
Bonedi Baris are palatial mansions that once belonged to zamindars and aristocrats of the city. Their families carry on the centuries-old legacy and host Pujos in their ornate ancestral homes. Rather than a pandal, they have a dedicated area for worship called the Thakur Dalan. These arched verandahs with chandeliers face the house's central courtyard. Jorasanko Daw Bari, Khelat Ghosh Bari, and Sovabazar Rajbari are a few ancient households that preserve the classic style of Durga Puja. Each visit whisks me back in time to old Calcutta. The stellar homes and the traditional idols imbue nostalgia of a time gone by.
Women of diverse age groups organise the Pujo in my locality. While most are strangers, they are very welcoming and have a contagious energy. On an Ashtami evening, a few years ago, they encouraged me to perform the Dhunuchi Dance. This trance-like dance, holding a smoke billowing earthen pot and matching the rhythms of dhak beats, is an offering of gratitude to Goddess Durga. On another Dashami, they pulled me, an unmarried woman, amid them for Sindur Khela. Durga Puja dissolves the class, religion, and age divide between people. Small-scale community pujas are the best places to witness such displays of camaraderie and interact with the locals.
When pandal hopping tired me, street food vendors come to the rescue. The streets of Kolkata fill up with outlets selling rolls, fish fries, and chow mein. Even Kolkata's Bengali restaurants conceive special Durga Puja menus. Additionally, there is always the iconic Rosogolla to end the day on a sweet note! Festivity and food form a connection around this time. And there's no better time to gorge on Bengali cuisine other than Durga Puja. An invitation to a Bhog is a recurring event every year. Bhog is the food offering to the goddess, served to visitors at the pandals. Lunch at the neighbourhood's Pujo, restaurant meet-ups with friends, and street food binging, fill visitors and attendees up to the brim. It is a time when the locals rarely eat at home.
On Dashami, married women wear white sarees with red borders and partake in Sindoor Khela at the pandals. In recent years, the ritual has grown inclusive of single and widowed women. The women smear vermillion on the Goddess and each other in a gesture of sisterhood. The Bisarjan ceremony on Dashami signifies the coming home of Goddess Durga. During this concluding ritual, trucks loaded with idols travel through the city to the river ghats. These carnival-like parades end with the immersion of the sculptures in the river. The city bids a teary goodbye to Goddess Durga, reminiscent of a send-off of a daughter to her marital abode. Shouts of "Asche Bochhor Abar Hobe" (it will happen again next year) are consoling reminders that the festivities will reprise next year. The zeal and zest in the air, the cultural sentiments, and the ingenuity of Durga Puja convince even an agnostic like me to revel in its festive spirit.
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