You Win Some, You Dim Sum

First things first

History states that the tradition of dim sum can be traced to the latter half of the 19th century. Merchants on the Silk Route used to stop for meals at tea houses along the way. These establishments served meals of several small dishes. Traders from China to Hong Kong and beyond carried this delicacy with them. From those humble beginnings, the art of dim sum has become a worldwide phenomenon.

What’s all the fuss about?

Well, a traditional dim sum meal can be quite a culinary journey. You sit down — usually at a large table with a big group — and participate in this extended social event where food is shared and exchanged. Some restaurants serve a rotating menu of dim sum delicacies on moving carts that weave between crowded tables. All you have to do is flag down your server and choose what you like. In modern tea houses, you may find a printed menu to check the boxes of the items you want and hand them over to the waiter. Sit back and wait for your feast to arrive.

Are momos and dim sum the same?

If I want to get technical (and I always do), momos are stuffed dumplings made of maida or atta while dim sum wrappers can be made of rice flour, corn flour, or potato starch. You could even say all momos are dim sum, but not all dim sums are momos!

So, what is dim sum?

Dim sum is generally served in small portions of a maximum of four pieces. These small dishes can be a mix of baked, steamed, or fried offerings and are usually vegetarian and non-vegetarian with a focus on seafood and pork. You also have marvellous sweet concoctions like egg tart, mango custard or sweet baos. But, before anything else, start with the ceremonial tea. Etiquette insists you serve the eldest at the table first. You also don't start eating until your elders do, delightful quaint rituals which, of course, we do not pay heed to in India. No worries, let’s get straight to the matter, shall we?

Top of the charts - Royal China

My first taste of dim sum was at Royal China. My daughter and I had read about an unlimited dim sum offer and decided to try it out. We had no idea of the culinary magic that awaited us. Plate after plate of tiny Chinese TAPAS-like treats filled our table. We feasted on prawn Cheung fan — where the silken rice noodles encased plump steamed prawns.

Small bamboo steamers were opened with fanfare to reveal intricately pleated dumplings filled with water chestnuts and corn. One saucer held two spongy steamed baos which exposed a ruby-red char siu pork filling when broken apart. And the treats didn't stop coming until we begged the waiters to cease and desist. I hear this unlimited offer does not exist at Royal China anymore and I understand why. With the amount we ate, the restaurant would have gone into a loss that day.

But to get back to the important stuff. Royal China has a seven-page menu dedicated to dim sum. Our must-try items are - 
  Fried prawn cheung fun 
Pork buns 
Seafood dumpling with chilli oil 
Location  
Fort: 
Hazarimal Somani Road, Behind Sterling Cinema Building, Fort, Mumbai 400001.
Bandra: 
Damian House, 2nd floor, Near Mehboob Studio, Bandra West, Mumbai 400050.

New bao on the block - Zao Cha

It’s become a thing. Every month or two is earmarked with a visit to Zao Cha House. We've been making time from our busy work schedules to take a break and enjoy slow, lovely, dim sum-filled afternoons at Zao Cha House. Zao Chao is a relatively new kid on the block but has already developed quite a following. With its minimal interiors and chic decor (love its large paper lanterns and unique window shapes), you sink right into the plush sofas to await your meal.

Zao Cha follows the principles of traditional dim sum restaurants where the tea is the shining star. They don't have alcohol but we didn't miss our afternoon cocktails. Instead, we focused on the duck pancakes (crispy duck rather than roast-y) and their well-priced dumplings. I loved they came in portions of two or three leaving us room to experiment and order more items. I especially love their menu with images of each dumpling and the accompanying tea recommendations. They currently offer an afternoon tea lunch from Tuesdays to Sundays where you can enjoy unlimited dim sum between 12 and 4 pm for a fixed price. Worth taking an afternoon off for! 

Must try -
Chicken Xiao Long Bao (the OG soupy dumpling)
Spicy pink crab meat dumpling
Wasabi prawns

Location 
House no. 25D, Pali Village Road, Bandra West, Mumbai 400050

Krowd favourite - Kuai Kitchen

Kuai Kitchen could be considered a poor man’s Royal China but we won't be so reductive. With two branches in the city, this pan-Asian QSR is high on speed and predictability and moderate with its space and prices. We love Kuai Kitchen for those nights when you don't feel like cooking and want a quick bite that doesn't break the bank. Their sushi and appetisers are quite delish. The vegetarian crystal dumplings are crunchy and fresh while the pork puffs are flaky delights guaranteed to have you reaching for more.

Must try - 
Dynamite prawns 
Water chestnut and corn dumplings 
Turnip cake with chilli oil 
Location

Colaba:
16/A, Cusrow Baug, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba, Mumbai 400005

Won't you take me to Food town?

Food outlets are springing up all over and no one is complaining. It has a vast and varied menu, innovative cocktail offerings, and super cool, funky decor. Get yourself to any Food on a Saturday night and you may mistakenly believe you've stepped into a happening nightclub rather than a restaurant. The tables are packed, the crowd oozes style, and the food is on point. The salmon carpaccio is to die for and don't forget to try their burrata salad for a novel take on an Italian classic. 

Must try
Lotus root dumpling 
Charcoal har gao 
Chilli duck dumpling
Location

Multiple locations. Can be found at Oshiwara, Lower Parel, Bandra West, Bandra Kurla Complex, Powai, Churchgate, and Goregaon East

Of pandas and pop art - Fatty Bao

Fatty Bao is a place of contradictions. The 60's cane furniture clashes with the eclectic wall art where pandas stare down at you while you savour your food. The bar menu is extensive and their food menu covers all the usual Chinese/Thai/Japanese/Korean suspects. As an aside, the ramen at Fatty Bao is your best friend on those rare chilly Mumbai days. Let’s start with the teas that come to you in comfortingly large teapots and serve four. Their dim sum menu is a mix of this and that. We tuck into our chicken and asparagus dumplings and top them up with some pork gyoza. Leave space for their signature desserts — the Japanese cotton cheesecake is the perfect ending to an already indulgent meal. 

Must try

Brie tempura 

Chilli crab and prawn bao

Sticky pork ribs (small plates)

Location

Ground Floor, Summerville, 33rd Road, Linking Road, Bandra West, Mumbai 400050

And that’s my countdown to the top five dim sum destinations in Mumbai. Hands down the winner is Royal China with its classic offerings and large speciality menu. Get there on an early weekday evening, and order a hot and sour seafood soup along with a plate of prawn Cheung fun and roast pork buns each. End this delicious interlude with a custard bun warm on the outside and filled with a sweet egg yolk creme within. Wash all this down with cups of tea in pretty porcelain cups. It may not have the same manic energy as a traditional dim sum meal in China or Hong Kong but it comes with its own set of charms and is a must-visit on your Mumbai list for sure.